Steep craggy cliffs climb skyward, puffed-up clouds scatter through the sky, and the wind thrusts you onto the thin, coastal path. The view at the end of the cliff-top walk seems like the end of the world: infinite sea and sky melding into the horizon. The dramatic Valley of Rocks in Exmoor is an under-rated, unknown gem in Devon, UK. A dry river valley, it is believed to owe its existence to a former extension of the East Lyn River, which now meets the sea at Lynmouth. The unusual landscape and geology make it the ideal day out for those who love their walks.
But that’s true of all of Devon, a tiny county that straddles a peninsula and is unique among all British counties on account of the fact that it has two separate coastlines that offer 450 miles of glorious beaches. The northern shoreline is more rugged, with a few estuaries, large expanses of sand, lofty cliffs, and UNESCO’s first UK World Biosphere Reserve. The estuary formed by the Taw and Torridge Rivers at Braunton Burrows has the UK’s largest sand-dune system. The southern coast is indented, with plenty of genteel coves and estuaries. The eastern part of the south coast comprises part of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. The beautiful coastline, which spans 185 million years of geological history, offers a walk through time gone by.
The best way to see Devon’s seaside is by walking the multi-award-winning South West Coast Path. The longest of England’s National Trails, beginning at Minehead in Somerset, runs along the coastline of Exmoor, slips into Cornwall and South Devon, and follows the Dorset coastline before finally ending at Poole Harbour. The Two Moors Way, a coast-to-coast walk that runs from North to South Devon, is suitable for day walkers and long-distance enthusiasts.