Evolving landscape
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla recall how there were no design schools, fashion journalism, PR or social media in the initial days. “Your clothes had to do the selling. Today it’s a massive industry with all the amenities,” they say. For the designers, it was a dream to reinvent chikan and make it into couture and it took two years of research and development before they made their first collection.
Likewise, Gaurav Gupta found limited opportunity to break into the international market when he started out. “Indian designers now have a far more global reach, with celebrities, stylists, and fashion aficionados worldwide recognising our craft,” he says. Rahul Khanna of Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna adds that consumers are also more conscious—they’re not just buying clothes, they’re buying into stories, values, and craftsmanship, thus creating a market for sustainable fashion.
Rahul Mishra’s Fall Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection explored the depths and mysteries of the idea of aura. “This resonance with deeper human experiences makes such themes universally appealing,” he says, talking about why his 2024 collections became a hit at the Paris Fashion Week. Mythology and spirituality are the newest runway companions. Rahul Khanna of Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, who recently designed a collection called ‘Cosmic Love’, says that we’re living in an era where people are seeking connection beyond the material—whether it’s through nature, the cosmos, or personal introspection and that their collection stemmed from that desire to explore the intangible.
When Navkirat Sodhi walked the Paris Fashion Week runway in a divine white attire for Gaurav Gupta, it was a reminder of the ghastly fires engulfing lands and life in a prominent corner of the world. Gupta who designed the ‘Across the Fire’ collection, says artists create what they feel and this was a deeply personal and emotional experience. “There’s a deep sense of pride in our roots, and designers are drawing inspiration from mythology, philosophy, and spiritual iconography.”
Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s much-anticipated 25th anniversary collection declared the designer was on a mission to make his brand and approach global. Manish Malhotra’s recent Dubai showcase aptly titled ‘World Collection: Dubai’ too announced how the designer had his eyes set on the global market. He ditched Indian ethnic for modern, contemporary designs that would cater to a larger audience. Three years ago, an entire row was empty at Dhruv Kapoor’s Milan debut. After his recent showcase at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, scores of international buyers crowded backstage to meet him. This has also translated to luxury brands eyeing the India market. From Alia Bhatt endorsing Gucci to Ananya Pandey for Swarovski, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja endorsing Dior and royal siblings Gauravi Kumari and Sawai Padmanabh Singh endorsing Jimmy Choo and US Polo Assn, respectively, the influence of Indian celebrities is being leveraged by international brands.