I holidayed at one of Italy’s most famous lakes but I won’t go back for 3 reasons (Image: Getty)
Lake Como has long been a beloved retreat for travellers craving a blend of Alpine splendour and Italian elegance. It’s also famed for being a popular and glamorous destination for celebrities, including George Clooney, who owns a villa in Laglio, and Richard Branson, who reportedly owns Villa La Cassinella. The lake itself is peppered with pastel-coloured villages, sophisticated villas, and striking mountain vistas.
I travelled to the sought-after spot in early June, when the lake was at its most picturesque during peak season. It was absolutely magical at first, but I quickly came to rue my choice of destination. Disembarking at the bustling ferry terminal in Bellagio, my initial impressions were utterly spectacular: I could instantly understand why it’s dubbed “the pearl of Lake Como”.
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Bellagio Pier, Lake Como, Italy. Boats are the most popular way to travel between towns located around the lake. (Image: Alena Kravchenko via Getty Images)
Nevertheless, it swiftly became evident that Bellagio had been rather oversold by the deluge of TikTok and Instagram reels that saturated my phone in the months preceding the journey.
Bellagio sits on a headland called the Lario Peninsula, in the southern section of Lake Como.
The main port of the lake is merely a brief journey from Milan; trains run regularly from Milan Centrale and Como San Giovanni, and travel times are approximately 37 to 47 minutes. Alternatively, it’s roughly a one-hour and 36-minute drive.
But getting to Bellagio is much longer if you take the slow (but scenic) boat from Como. The route is between 10 and 16 stops, taking around two and a half hours.
Bellagio itself is stunning during daylight hours, even the crowds of tourists don’t feel particularly oppressive as you meander through the twisting cobblestone lanes. But as evening falls, the magic dissipates.
Most eateries shut remarkably early—around 9pm or 9.30pm—with only a handful staying open until 10pm or 11pm.
Following a complete day of discovering the lake, we yearned for a leisurely late supper or a beverage with a panoramic view.
Lake side restaurants were busy in the day in Bellagio, but they were almost empty by 9.30pm (Image: Izzet Keribar via Getty Images)
Yet, Bellagio was already shutting down. Hailing from Milan, where nightlife thrives in the bustling piazzas, Bellagio seemed oddly quiet.
Looking back, we may have been a bit naive to anticipate the same late-night European buzz in a small lakeside town. However, we were let down by the early closing times.
It was especially irksome on evenings when we returned from other towns like Lenno, where eateries stayed open later and the ambience was more laid-back, warm, and inviting.
Our day at Villa del Balbianello, famed for its iconic Star Wars and James Bond scenes, ended with a more vibrant late afternoon in Lenno, highlighting that Bellagio simply wasn’t the right fit for us.
Varenna was one of our favourite spots on lake Como (Image: staraldo via Getty Images)
For a destination as tourist-focused and refined as Bellagio, the food was a letdown. We had a string of rather forgettable dinners, and one night was particularly marred by an overly dry tiramisu served by a host who held strong views about local Airbnb proprietors.
While some restaurateurs were kind—one even lent us umbrellas and plastic bags during a dramatic rainstorm—most meals felt overpriced and underwhelming.
Despite its gastronomic backdrop, Bellagio lacked flavour; however, there’s something to be said for long queues at restaurants luring us away from some of the most coveted spots.
Bellagio, the busiest town on Lake Como, feels more commercialised than its quieter, more authentic neighbours. Even Varenna and Lenno, which are equally popular, retain a rustic Italian charm that Bellagio seems to lack.
The streets are picturesque and a great workout with lots of steps to climb (Image: Getty)
However, Bellagio is not without its charms. Staying with an Airbnb host who lived on-site offered a fantastic opportunity to practise Italian and enjoy fresh fish cooked in the garden after his fishing trip.
Another highlight was the stunning landscape, with Bellagio offering almost panoramic views. Discovering San Giovanni beach was like uncovering a hidden gem, accessible only by a scenic walk filled with stairs.
By this measure, Bellagio falls short for less mobile visitors beyond the initial cobbled streets leading to the bustling port. Public transport is limited to ferries, buses and a few elusive taxis.
The slow ferry from Como to Bellagio is a must-do. This nearly two-hour cruise passes charming villages like Tremezzo, Lenno, and Cernobbio.
At just £18, it’s scenic and relaxing, making the long journey absolutely worth it, even if it does make returning to the drizzly UK summer a bit harder to bear.
The ferry schedule to other parts of the lake is simple to understand if you visit the ferry port. A piece of advice: purchase your ticket first, then savour a drink at the restaurant across from the port whilst you wait.
Enjoying complimentary nibbles with an Aperol in the sunshine significantly enhances the queuing experience, but don’t get too engrossed, or you might still miss the ferry.