It’s been a history of influence that the queen of punk couture—Vivienne Westwood—wielded over the fashion world till her death in 2022. She used hard-core graphics, inner wear as outerwear, and developed fashion as a form of her radical expressionism in the 70s and 80s. The brand finally made it to Indian shores with its latest capsule collection that brought in silhouettes in Indian fabrics, khadi and chanderi silks, together with classic archival pieces from the house of Vivienne Westwood.
Though the brand lacks store presence in India, it chose to unveil on a 166-ft-long runway spanning the Gateway of India by the Arabian Sea in South Mumbai, presenting a selection of Spring Summer 2025 Vivienne Westwood looks and special archival pieces. It ushered in a splash out of traditional Indian textiles in a mix: from muslin cottons to raw silks, and fine pashmina wool. From flowing sheers to puffed sleeves to exaggerated cuffs, asymmetric ruffles, cinched waists, and oversized collars, the collection brought in the shimmer and shine, languid cuts and comfortable silhouettes, slashed hems and diving necklines: a tempering down of the signature Vivienne Westwood bold contours. Sepia runs brought in the signature tartan prints in fabrics and high-heeled pumps, elements of adroit corsetry, and the swagger of her famous (1981 collection) Pirates pants.
The brand worked in collaboration with Vivz Fashion School (in Pune) and Aaranya, an initiative powered by Priyadarshini Scindia, of the erstwhile royal family of Gwalior. The latter’s commitment to promoting chanderi led to the contours crafted in prized chanderi silk. The use of khadi in the collection was facilitated by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission in a bid to elevate traditional, handwoven fabrics to the global fashion platform.
“At Vivienne Westwood we have long championed craftsmanship and heritage. We are proud to partner with the artisanal hand-crafted textile industry of India for this show,” says Carlo D’Amario CEO, Vivienne Westwood. He visited India last year on Priyadarshini’s invitation. His earlier visit to Goa during the 1970s stood strong in his memories, and fuelled by his passion for India, and the rapid opening up of the luxury market in the country, he charted the way ahead with this collaboration with Andreas Kronthaler, Creative Director, Vivienne Westwood. Says Kronthaler, “I loved getting to know the khadi and chanderi fabrics—there is a lightness, a crispiness, an opulence, and a feeling that there is something behind them. Materials can have a soul, especially fabrics which are handwoven—you see the human touch.”
With the growing sense of India-strong aesthetics girdling the global luxury market, India is finally securing its place under the sun decidedly, assuredly.